If you wanted to design a perfect setting for your pretty town, then perhaps you would consider a lake-side spot, encircled by snow-peaked mountains. Well Lucerne – you nailed it!
After driving four passes in one day, a quick lap around Lucerne historic highlights on foot was a less elevated, but equally delightful day, especially starting with a short ferry ride across Lake Lucerne.
Our ferry across the lake
Heading into harbour and the town centre
Imposing buildings line the shoreline
The centrepiece of the city is the Chapel Bridge, or Kapellbrücke.
Kapellbrücke panorama
Built originally in the 12th century and spanning the river Reuss, the wooden bridge is angled across the river at the junction with an octagonal water tower.
The bridge is sharply angled across the river
The Water Tower
It is the oldest wooden, covered bridge in Europe and the oldest truss bridge in the world.
Many of the interior paintings along the length of the bridge were destroyed in a fire, but some still remain, even though they look pretty doom-ladened!
Chapel Bridge painting
The neighbouring wooden bridge – the Spreuer Bridge – takes doom to the next level, with a series of “danse macabre” images along its full length.
The Spreuer Bridge
One of the Dance of Death depictions under the eaves of the Spreuer Bridge
Between the two bridges is the Needle Dam or Nadelwehr, designed to manage the flow of the river, in order to maintain the level of Lake Lucerne through the adding and subtracting of a series of wooden panels. The Nadelwehr is one of the last remaining needle dams still in use today.
The ancient Nadelwehr or Needles, still in use today
The Nadelwehr in action
Looking back at the Nadelwehr and the Kappelbrücker
Strolling around the city, it is impossible not to see its history writ large all around. Houses painted with family trees, merchants advertising their wares – both ancient and modern – as well as simply beautiful decoration.
Just in case you forget your family heritage – paint in on the house
It’s more fun than just a poster to advertise your cafe
All kinds of scenes can be seen
It is almost as though the buildings are competing for attention
The house murals are also more modern – this dates from 1920s
Lucerne is not a big city and the historic centre can easily be covered on foot. Views from the city walls and towers are also a great place to appreciate the picture-perfect city setting.
The view across the river
From the walls to the waters of Lucerne
Looking down the length of the wall to the next tower
A short walk from the city walls is the famous Lion Monument. Carved directly into the rock, it is a mournful memorial to 600 Swiss Guard soldiers who were killed defending the Tuileries Palace in Paris during the French Revolution. Mark Twain said the massive carving was “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world”.
The sorrow is etched in every line on his face
Normally it overlooks a water pool, fed by the rain and river above, but the day we visited, the pool was drained and the lifeless lion was getting a clean up.
The Lion Monument gets some loving attention
The inscription reads To the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss
Our day started with a ferry across the lake and ended with unusual encounters with two motorbikes. The first, was a fully electric sports bike we found tucked away between the wheelbarrow and bicycles, in the storage area of a fabulous city farm and eco-restaurant Hinter Musegg just behind the city walls. It would not have been out of place in any Star Wars movie.
What a machine
It looks like a prop from a movie set
A fantastic design
In complete contrast, as we headed back to our camp we met two delightful German travellers (sitting, laughing to the left of the picture), two-up on an Enfield, originally bought in India in the 1960s, but then substantially modified. Among its more interesting mods was the diesel engine, taken from an old hand-held dirt compactor.
We loved their story
When the travel bug hits, anything will get you there!
Despite only pushing out 8hp, it got the pair of them from Germany to Switzerland, both still laughing as they went. A testament to our low, slow travel theory for sure!
