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Sintra Part IV – Marvellous Monserrate

 

If you are looking for an example of sheer indulgence, rescued literally from the ashes of pure neglect, you need look no further than the Monserrate Palace near Sintra.

A flight of fancy, built in a Moghul-inspired designed for an English merchant in 1790, who abandons it just four years later. Rented out for short periods of time, but with no one to really care for it, the exotic mansion was finally rescued by an English knight  – Sir Francis Cook – in the mid-19th century. The Cook family undertook a mammoth task – one still being maintained today by the trust which now owns and runs this beautiful, Romantic-inspired wedding cake of a building.

 

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Sintra Part III – Curious Quinta

It takes a true alchemist to combine Masonry, The Knights Templar, four different types of architecture and perhaps a big dollop of arrogance and not come off looking totally crazy.

Wealthy merchant Antonio Augusto Carvalho Monteiro did just that at Quinta da Regaleira near Sintra, and guess what – it’s a world heritage site too!

The gardens feature grottos, fountains, secret tunnels, towers, lakes and possible Masonic rituals. The house has its own alchemy den on the roof where he spent many hours, days and weeks on endless “projects”.  His breathtakingly talented Italian architect – Luigi Manini – designed and laboured over an incredible amount of detail of every inch of Quinta da Regaleira, inside and out, with masterly imagination and astounding prowess in technical drawing. 

But for all his millions and attention to romantic detail, Monteiro and his wife lived only one year together in the finished mansion before her early death, and he followed her only eight years later.

They left behind an intriguing and beguiling home – an enigmatic thing of beauty for us to enjoy and marvel at, perhaps the best alchemy of all that he conjured.

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Sintra Part II – The pleasure of Pena Palace

There’s so much gorgeousness in a few square kilometers around Sintra in Portugal  – it’s almost embarrassing, so on Geoff’s birthday we set out to revel in it all –  how Romantic!

The Romanticism movement is actually the key to all the loveliness around the area – starting with Pena Palace, the summer retreat for the royal family during the 18th and 19th centuries and is still used for state occasions to this day.

Pena started out more humbly though – as a small chapel on the hill, which became a place of pilgrimage for kings and monks alike for decades. Despite the massive damage done to the surrounding area during the infamous Lisbon earthquake of 1755, the chapel remained intact.

More decades rolled by until the young, idealists prince Ferdinand took it upon himself to transform the chapel, its hillside and the surrounding estates into the summer palace for the royal family.

The romantic styling was left, naturally, in the hands of German mining engineer Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege – hard to believe, but true! He was considered to be just an amateur architect. Perhaps his engineering blood is what ensured the attention to detail was so exact…. But that engineer had a poet’s heart for sure to be able to merge neo-gothic with neo-islamic, alongside neo-renaissance and neo-manueline and wrap it all around the remains of the original chapel.

Today, it is a place of pilgrimage for millions of admirers and romantics, who can marvel at the foresight of Ferdinand and the skill of the amateur Wilhelm.

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Scintillating Sintra (Part I)

Sintra is deservedly a world heritage site, surrounded by world heritage sites, but never mind that – check out the size of the chimneys on that thing, they’re mammoth!

 

The Sintra National Palace is the best preserved example of a medieval palace in Portugal and at a time when the size of your kitchen chimney said a lot about a man… the Moorish rulers must have had it going on!

Built in the town below the Moorish Castle – which is now little more than just ruins perched on the hill above – the National Palace was built in the 10th century and later taken over by the Spanish king after forcing out the Moors in the 12th century. Many changes and additions were made to the building over the following centuries and changing kings and queens.

There are many other incredible buildings around the district of Sintra and we are dedicating the next four posts to this multiple world heritage area, for you to feast your eyes upon them.

Sintra is officially and understandably – a national and world treasure. Lord Byron declared it the most beautiful place he had ever seen. And who would be daft enough to argue with him.