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Scotland gets our vote!

 

It’s official; Scotland is our favourite place in the UK. From highlands to islands, across moors and lochs, at the Highland Games and sheepdog trials, we’ve had a hoot-mon!

It seems people fight over Scotland a lot. We arrived just weeks before the referendum on independence from the rest of the UK.

 

A nation divided?

A nation divided?

 

The polls seemed pretty evenly split until the day dawned and the No campaign won through. But the ballot boxes had barely been stored away before voices of regret began to be heard.

More than 250 years ago Bonnie Prince Charlie must have had a few regrets as his army became bogged on Culloden moor and was routed by the English – sealing the fate of a nation to this day.

Bonnie Prince Charlie arrived here to start the Scotish revolution. Within nine months he was defeated and on the run

Bonnie Prince Charlie arrived here to start the Scotish revolution. Within nine months he was defeated and on the run

Sometimes history is made in the most unassuming places - Culloden field

Sometimes history is made in the most unassuming places – Culloden field

Now the fields grow cattle fodder, in 1746 they were filled with human canon fodder

Now the fields grow cattle fodder, in 1746 they were filled with human canon fodder

The boggy marshes of Culloden field were the downfall of the Jacobite armies

The boggy marshes of Culloden field were the downfall of the Jacobite armies

 

We had no regrets in Scotland. The sun shone almost daily – bringing the bluest skies and gorgeous views from the Highlands and Islands alike.

We couldn't believe how sunny and blue it was as we hiked the Black Cuillin

We couldn’t believe how sunny and blue it was as we hiked the Black Cuillin

Big sky over Skye - at Broadford

Big sky over Skye – at Broadford

Fire and ice in the sky as the sun sets and the moon rises over the Kyles of Bute

Fire and ice in the sky as the sun sets and the moon rises over the Kyles of Bute

 

We sailed over the sea to Skye; hiked up to the Black Cuillin and out to Neist Point lighthouse; met the most majestic sheep we have ever seen and much, much more.

 

The view from the Cuillin - nearly high enough to touch the sky

The view from the Cuillin – nearly high enough to touch the sky

Over the sea to Skye

Over the sea to Skye

Hiking up to the Black Cuillin, Skye

Hiking up to the Black Cuillin, Skye

Neist Point, Skye

Neist Point, Skye

Neist Point lighthouse, with basalt cairns and a huge foghorn!

Neist Point lighthouse, with basalt cairns and a huge foghorn!

The magnificent and increasingly rare, four-horned Hebridean sheep

The magnificent and increasingly rare, four-horned Hebridean sheep

One of many glorious days camping in Scotland

One of many glorious days camping in Scotland

Loch Dunvegan, Skye

Loch Dunvegan, Skye

The moon over Loch Harport at Carbost, Skye

The moon over Loch Harport at Carbost, Skye

 

Oban has a couple of stand out landmarks. The first is a folly – the huge Coliseum style building looming over the town and the whisky distillery that gave the town its name and occasionally gives its scent.

 

Whisky and folly galore!

Whisky and folly galore!

Oban harbour

Oban harbour

 

In Oban we met an American woman making ready to compete in the Masters International Highland Games the following week in Inverness. We couldn’t resist the trip.

 

We were cheering for Angela - who told us about the Games.

We were cheering for Angela – who told us about the Games.

 

At the risk of sounding dismissive – Highland games revolve around throwing unfeasible long, heavy or awkward objects around.

 

This sport is not for the meek - that stone weighs nearly 90kgs

This sport is not for the meek – that stone weighs nearly 90kgs

They call them The Heavies

They call them The Heavies

This lady turned up late, with a broken nose after a car crash, and still won the round

This lady turned up late, with a broken nose after a car crash, and still won the round

Just pick up this 110kg stone and throw it over that bar, would you

Just pick up this 110kg stone and throw it over that bar, would you

Equalling the women's world record (17ft) for throwing a heavy weight over a high bar

Equalling the women’s world record (17ft) for throwing a heavy weight over a high bar

 

Sometimes the size, shape and requirements are too much to handle.

 

It can be hard to keep control of a caber - and a risky business too

It can be hard to keep control of a caber – and a risky business too

 

It was a Masters tournament, so that means over the age of 40. The oldest competitor was 84!

 

Looks can be deceiving - this old fella tossed more cabers than men nearly half his age

Looks can be deceiving – this old fella tossed more cabers than men nearly half his age

The over sixties were pretty impressive.

The over sixties were pretty impressive.

 

It was incredible and topped off with a world record simultaneous caber-tossing extravaganza!

 

The caber-tossers are standing by for the record attempt

The caber-tossers are standing by for the record attempt

A caber-tossing frenzy

A caber-tossing frenzy

The caber-tossing Guinness World Record official

The caber-tossing Guinness World Record official

 

Inverness is a lovely city – with the fish-filled River Ness running through it and of course the infamous monster-filled loch close by. It has a handsome castle,

 

Inverness Castle on the River Ness

Inverness Castle on the River Ness

 

the most fantastic arts centre, where we saw the premiere of the Nick Cave film, 20,000 days on Earth , took lovely river walks,

 

The Ness river running through Inverness, and still open for trout fishing

The Ness river running through Inverness, and still open for trout fishing

 

complete with mid-stream wooded islands stuffed with proper toadstools and the most moving pet cemetery. We were very taken with Inverness!

 

To Noddy - one of the tombstones at the Ness Island pet cemetery

To Noddy – one of the tombstones at the Ness Island pet cemetery

Tombstones in the pet cemetery on Ness Island, Inverness

Tombstones in the pet cemetery on Ness Island, Inverness

Ness Island toadstools

Ness Island toadstools

 

There are many more photos in the slideshow than we’ve featured in the blog – so please, raise a glass to Scotland and enjoy the beauty of the place with us. If you still haven;t supped enough of the spirit of Scotland, there are even more photos on our Flickr page – so have a peek at those too!

 

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Away to me

Herding sheep? Easy. You grab one and the rest just follow, well, like sheep, right?  Oh, no. It’s complicated, but don’t worry – there are cute puppy pictures as well!

Neil Ross is a champion sheepdog trainer.

Neil Ross barks out the commands

Neil Ross barks out the commands

 

A no-nonsense Scot who is one of the last full-time shepherds in his region in Inverness-shire, he also spends years training his sheepdogs. And it shows.

 

Running with the hounds

Running with the hounds

Neil's skill is evident

Neil’s skill is evident

 

It takes at least two years to train a sheepdog. The first year is spent training to voice commands – lie down, away to me, a few bits of swearing and general chat seemed to be the standard. The second year is training to a specific whistle

Each dog has its own whistles and there are eight commands, so if you have eighteen dogs, as Neil does, that’s a lot of whistles. However, stop is stop and universal for all.

 

Most shepherds would only use one or two dogs for herding

Most shepherds would only use one or two dogs for herding

 

Neil’s skill isn’t limited to handling the dogs. He can fling a mean sheep around too.

 

Neil is also a full-time shepherd and can swing a big fat ewe like a bag of feathers

Neil is also a full-time shepherd and can swing a big fat ewe like a bag of feathers

Now we know how to keep hold of a sheep

Now we know how to keep hold of a sheep

Not missing a trick, even though he's just a pup

Not missing a trick, even though he’s just a pup

 

And never mind those Aussie shearers with their electric cutters – Neil scalped this one in pretty short order, while maintaining a constant monologue on the evils of mechanical razors!

 

The sheep get sheered twice a year. The new growth is left on for winter warmth

The sheep get sheered twice a year. The new growth is left on for winter warmth

Ta dah! Sheered in one piece

Ta dah! Sheered in one piece

 

We were more interested in the smaller fleeces.

 

Who wants to feed the baby lambs? Me, Me..oh and that little kid

Who wants to feed the baby lambs? Me, Me..oh and that little kid

 

Feeding baby lambs is nice and all that, but where are the puppies?

 

All I want for Christmas…

All I want for Christmas…

Bucket of puppies

Bucket of puppies

Stick with me kid, you'll be fine

Stick with me kid, you’ll be fine

 

Neil’s yard was good training for us, as the next day we were off to a real sheepdog trial.

Unusually for our Scottish trip, the weather was not being kind to us, but the show trial must go on.

 

Sheep herding happens come rain or shine

Sheep herding happens come rain or shine

 

Soon the grey mists lifted and we could see the dogs in action.

 

Fixed intent as he waits his turn

Fixed intent as he waits his turn

Ready for anything

Ready for anything

 

There are five main components to the competition:

The lift – where the dog races down the field, coming up behind the sheep and moves them off their standing position…..

Far down the field the dog lifts the group of sheep and brings them to the top end of the field

Far down the field the dog lifts the group of sheep and brings them to the top end of the field

 

The drive – bringing the sheep back up the field to the shepherd and around the standing post…..

Waiting in the long grass

Waiting in the long grass

The sheep must be herded down a long field and brought to the shepherd. Some look surprised to have arrived!

The sheep must be herded down a long field and brought to the shepherd. Some look surprised to have arrived!

 

Gates – taking the flock through two gates….

 

The dogs are not allowed to touch the sheep but herd them from a distance

The dogs are not allowed to touch the sheep but herd them from a distance

These sheep are going full tilt - which can lose points if technique goes full tilt with them

These sheep are going full tilt – which can lose points if technique goes full tilt with them

 

The pen – getting the sheep into a pen. Some encouragement from the shepherd with the gate rope or his stick is permitted, but not encouraged…..

 

Using the gate or your stick too much gets points deducted

Using the gate or your stick too much gets points deducted

 

Splitting the herd – in some competitions, specific sheep with coloured collars have to be split from the main group, but at this trial it was simply a question of going in two-by-two….

 

Splitting the sheep herd is not nearly as easy as it looks

Splitting the sheep herd is not nearly as easy as it looks

 

Some were mighty impressive and some were having a bad day.

A very stylish shepherdess

A very stylish shepherdess

These sheep were stubborn as mules,  and eventually ran out the clock on Vivian and her dog.

These sheep were stubborn as mules, and eventually ran out the clock on Vivian and her dog.

Each dog has it's own whistle - but points are deducted for whistling too much

Each dog has it’s own whistle – but points are deducted for whistling too much

 

And some simply got on the wrong side of some pretty grumpy sheep.

 

They don't all follow like sheep - some fight back

They don’t all follow like sheep – some fight back

 

But the level of skill amongst them all was undeniable. Dog and trainer in perfect harmony. If you ever get the chance to go to a sheep dog trial – grab it, we promise you’ll enjoy it!

Okay, okay – here are the puppies again!

Bucket of puppies

Bucket of puppies