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The art of politics in Sardinia

Perhaps the highest concentration of political graffiti in Europe and formerly known as the Village of the Murderers – so how come we have never heard of Orgosolo until now?

Orgosolo is a small town in the middle of Sardinia. A few thousand inhabitants and a sleepy feel to it, especially during the heat of the day.

Not the most revolutionary looking place

Not the most revolutionary looking place

 

But it is the heat of battle, both political and personal, that has left its mark on Orgosolo – literally.

 

Calling the workers to unite against the government - an age-old demand

Calling the workers to unite against the government – an age-old demand

Illustrating the mistreatment of Sardinians by invading troops from Piedmont in the 1800s

Illustrating the mistreatment of Sardinians by invading troops from Piedmont in the 1800s

Even the postcard shop is painted.

Even the postcard shop is painted.

 

In the 1960s political cartoons and artwork began to appear on the town walls. What started as small-scale protests about Italy’s economic crisis, has blossomed into a concrete catalogue of protest against Italian and international politics. Hardly a wall remains untouched.

Issues from war, hunger, poverty, corruption and even shark-fining are writ large. Often they are in praise or defence of workers rights and the islands’ peasantry. The main picture at the top of this page calls for fertilisers, not bullets.

 

Another War? No thanks

Another War? No thanks

Murals cover most walls in Orgosolo

Murals cover most walls in Orgosolo

Many images have more than a nod toward Picasso and other artists

Many images have more than a nod toward Picasso and other artists

 

The murals are not only in Orgosolo, there are more than 250 around Sardinia, but more than 60% decorate the narrow streets of Orgosolo.

 

Art is as common as street signs in Orgosolo

Art is as common as street signs in Orgosolo

Ancient Wisdom

Ancient Wisdom

The murals are also painted on rocks across the island

The murals are also painted on rocks across the island

When the missionaries came to Africa they had the Bible and we had the land. They said Let us pray. We closed our eyes. When we opened them, we had the Bible and they had the land - Desmnd Tutu

When the missionaries came to Africa they had the Bible and we had the land. They said Let us pray. We closed our eyes. When we opened them, we had the Bible and they had the land – Desmnd Tutu

 

Some have been given a new lease of life as the same politics comes back around – boatloads of refugees heading across the Mediterranean are being faced with a so-called let-them-all-drown policy.

 

We are all immigrants declares the slogan

We are all immigrants declares the slogan

 

Many of the slogans are in Italian, but there are many also in Sardinian. Many are deeply ironic in either language. We have made our best Google translate attempts, but forgive the technology and us if we have got some of it wrong.

 

How many innocent people wll die before tyranny is ended?

How many innocent people wll die before tyranny is ended?

Not sure what this one says, but it doesn't look good and it's probably the fault of America

Not sure what this one says, but it doesn’t look good and it’s probably the fault of America

Shades of Guernica amongst the window boxes

Shades of Guernica amongst the window boxes

The street is named in honour of an Italian general. The mural condemns his military record

The street is named in honour of an Italian general. The mural condemns his military record

 

Amongst the great art there is also great irony. The island’s famous protests are displayed in the town that used to be the capital of Sardinia’s bandit country – rife with kidnap, extortion and even murder. Two relatively recent deaths of a former gangster-turned-poet and the local priest who preached against violence are perhaps a sign that Orgosolo’s walls may condemn violence and corruption, but its streets sometimes tell a different story.

 

The message reads - No to innocent victims, yes to peace, but is fading fast

The message reads – No to innocent victims, yes to peace, but is fading fast

 

Given the history of the island and the constant invasions over the centuries perhaps it is no surprise that there is fight as well as protest engraved in their heart and on their homes.

 

Happy are the people who do not need heroes

Happy are the people who do not need heroes

 

 

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Here, there and everywhere

 

We’ve been criss-crossing England and Wales for the last few weeks – visiting friends and family – so fewer stories to tell than usual. But here’s a few photos from our travels – including a quick trip to Cornwall, a birthday treat in Brighton – where our night-time love affair with the Brighton Pavilion will become apparent (the inside is even better but we weren’t allowed to take photos) and contrasts rather spectacularly with Stonehenge!

 

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Feeling Blue

Our time in Morocco is coming to an end, so perhaps it is no surprise that we are feeling a little blue? Or could it just be our surroundings perhaps?

Chefchaouen, in the Rif Mountains is famous for its blue medina and woven silks. When we visited, there was a rumour running around that the king, Mohammed VI might be visiting in a week or two, so the town was furiously sloshing fresh blue paint everywhere. There’s not much more the say about this pretty town, apart from its incredible blueness – so just enjoy the pictures.  And if  you’re reading this blog, Big Mo – here’s a sneak peek for you too!

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Marrakech medina – what a place!

 

Need your senses to be dazzled, your snake charmed, hands tattooed, lunch pulled out of a pit in the floor or second-hand false teeth?  Then we’ve got it covered!

The Marrakech souks are on the edge of the city’s main square – Djemaa el-Fna – inside the medina, or old town.

Looking across Djemaa el-Fna into the medina beyond

Looking across Djemaa el-Fna into the medina beyond

Here you will find any amount of entertainment – some of it even intentional – such as the intimidating snake charmers who guard their pitches ferociously, demanding money with menaces from anyone who dares to take photos from afar,

The snake charmer leaves one customer in no doubt about the price of a holiday snap

The snake charmer leaves one customer in no doubt about the price of a holiday snap

 

the drummers and dancers,

How can you resist those smiles!

How can you resist those smiles!

Drumming is an essential part of the day in Djemaa el-Fna

Drumming is an essential part of the day in Djemaa el-Fna

henna tattooists and amateur boxers.

Henna tattooists waiting for a client

Henna tattooists waiting for a client

Day and night it is all about the hustle and inside the medina it isn’t much different.

Morning time at Djemaa el-Fna and the square is barely awake - a shadow of its night life

Morning time at Djemaa el-Fna and the square is barely awake – a shadow of its night life

Nightime lights up Djemaa el-Fna

Nightime lights up Djemaa el-Fna

The medina is a rabbit warren of mutli-coloured stalls, assaulting your senses with colour, noise, taste and smell. Only the legions of satellite dishes perched atop ancient rooftops give away the modern world.

Handicrafts, food, spices, clothes, kitchenware, jewellery and shoes are everywhere – it is part local market, part tourist draw, with daily essentials and needless trinkets, beautiful artisan work and total tat in equal measure.

The shoeless salesman

The shoeless salesman

Looking down the medina side street

Looking down the medina side street

Light bounces off lights

Light bounces off lights

Herbs and spices, colour and scent combined

Herbs and spices, colour and scent combined

For once in Morocco - the price up front and obvious!

For once in Morocco – the price up front and obvious!

Any colour and any match

Any colour and any match

We strolled through for hours, just looking and tasting – especially tasting the mechoui – slow roast lamb which is lowered into pits in the floor of the tiny serving kiosks at the edge of the medina.

 

Mechoui Alley meat ready to go

Mechoui Alley meat ready to go

Mechoui ready for eating in the Marrakech medina - delicious

Mechoui ready for eating in the Marrakech medina – delicious

Mechoui pit in the middle of the kiosk - the lambs are slow baked in the hole heated by the hammam baths

Mechoui pit in the middle of the kiosk – the lambs are slow baked in the hole heated by the hammam baths

The clay pits steam day and night.

Mechoui is cooked in steaming pits heated from the fires of the neighbouring hammam (public baths)

Mechoui is cooked in steaming pits heated from the fires of the neighbouring hammam (public baths)

 

Whole lambs are raised from beneath the floor at lunchtime, then chunks are simply served in paper with fresh bread and cumin.

Mechoui lamb emerges from the steam pit

Mechoui lamb emerges from the steam pit

Mechoui piping hot is sold by weight in half kilo chunks

Mechoui piping hot is sold by weight in half kilo chunks

Mechoui (slow cooked lamb) mmmmh!

Mechoui (slow cooked lamb) mmmmh!

Deliciously tender and a perfect early lunch to set you up to feast on the excesses of medina life!

Thankfully the lamb was lovely and tender, so we didn’t need to avail ourselves of the second-hand teeth and dentures stall. We weren’t sure if the forceps were for pulling new stock or fitting the old ones!

Dentures for sale, or just single teeth if you prefer - forceps at the ready for fitting or exchange!

Dentures for sale, or just single teeth if you prefer – forceps at the ready for fitting or exchange!

In many ways life has barely changed in the square and medina. The Photography Museum exhibits from the early 20th century look strikingly similar to our ExtraordinaryPlaces exhibits from a century later.

A timeless place - this photo was taken in March 2014

A timeless place – this photo was taken in March 2014

And this photo was taken nearly a hundred years before

And this photo was taken nearly a hundred years before

The dress maybe more traditional, but the similarities are vivid in this image from the Photography Museum

The dress maybe more traditional, but the similarities are vivid in this image from the Photography Museum

 

The dress may be modern, but the street is unchanged

The dress may be modern, but the street is unchanged

 

There is so much more to see, so sit back and enjoy the show!