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Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow

“There should be snow by the side of the road so it really feels like we have driven in the Atlas mountains” I said. Be careful what you wish for, Holden.

As we had climbed over the highest road in Morocco a few days earlier, we had certainly seen the remains of snowy peaks, and there was even some of the white stuff still clinging on by the side of the road. So, we could tick that box.

Snow by the side of the road - tick!

Snow by the side of the road – tick!

 

The High Atlas sure is pretty!

The High Atlas sure is pretty!

The day before, sugar-coated mountain tops and sunshine!

The day before, sugar-coated mountain tops and sunshine!

 

However, just a few days ago – long after the mountain passes had been declared “snow-free” we were driving from Midelt, in the Mid Atlas range, to Fes over a lower pass, we had our customary roof-off-whatever-the-weather approach, despite a few spits and spots of rain.

“Hang on, ” we said, almost in unison “that’s not rain, it’s snow!”

The first few flakes were fun, fluttering down in soggy splats on the windscreen, but as we climbed higher, at around 1900m, it started to come down so thick and fast that the roof was definitely going back on and that was the least of our worries!

 

The visibility when it was still okay

The visibility when it was still okay

Visibility was closing in fast - this is a mountain road!

Visibility was closing in fast – this is a mountain road!

 

Suddenly our colourful Moroccan world become monochrome

Suddenly our colourful Moroccan world become monochrome

We were 60km from our destination, on a winding mountain road in a virtual white-out!

Honestly - there is a mountain over there

Honestly – there is a mountain over there

 

An almost total white-out

An almost total white-out

Three times we had to stop to clear the windscreen. So much snow had packed across the front of poor old Charlie Charleston  that no air could get to cool the air-cooled engine and it was in the bizarre danger of overheating in the snow, the headlights where virtually blanked out with the white stuff and at one stage the wipers simply stopped in mid-swing, too jammed with snow to cope.

The third stop to clear the windscreen and headlights

The third stop to clear the windscreen and headlights

Geoff is standing at the front of the car and is barely visible

Geoff is standing at the front of the car and is barely visible

 

Finally as we descended into Ifrane – ironically one of the top ski resorts in Morocco (no, we didn’t know there were ski resorts here either!) – the snow stopped.

A white-knuckle ride we didn’t expect, but all part of the adventures. By the snow on the side of the road measure, we have driven across the Atlas mountains in style!

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Marrakech medina – what a place!

 

Need your senses to be dazzled, your snake charmed, hands tattooed, lunch pulled out of a pit in the floor or second-hand false teeth?  Then we’ve got it covered!

The Marrakech souks are on the edge of the city’s main square – Djemaa el-Fna – inside the medina, or old town.

Looking across Djemaa el-Fna into the medina beyond

Looking across Djemaa el-Fna into the medina beyond

Here you will find any amount of entertainment – some of it even intentional – such as the intimidating snake charmers who guard their pitches ferociously, demanding money with menaces from anyone who dares to take photos from afar,

The snake charmer leaves one customer in no doubt about the price of a holiday snap

The snake charmer leaves one customer in no doubt about the price of a holiday snap

 

the drummers and dancers,

How can you resist those smiles!

How can you resist those smiles!

Drumming is an essential part of the day in Djemaa el-Fna

Drumming is an essential part of the day in Djemaa el-Fna

henna tattooists and amateur boxers.

Henna tattooists waiting for a client

Henna tattooists waiting for a client

Day and night it is all about the hustle and inside the medina it isn’t much different.

Morning time at Djemaa el-Fna and the square is barely awake - a shadow of its night life

Morning time at Djemaa el-Fna and the square is barely awake – a shadow of its night life

Nightime lights up Djemaa el-Fna

Nightime lights up Djemaa el-Fna

The medina is a rabbit warren of mutli-coloured stalls, assaulting your senses with colour, noise, taste and smell. Only the legions of satellite dishes perched atop ancient rooftops give away the modern world.

Handicrafts, food, spices, clothes, kitchenware, jewellery and shoes are everywhere – it is part local market, part tourist draw, with daily essentials and needless trinkets, beautiful artisan work and total tat in equal measure.

The shoeless salesman

The shoeless salesman

Looking down the medina side street

Looking down the medina side street

Light bounces off lights

Light bounces off lights

Herbs and spices, colour and scent combined

Herbs and spices, colour and scent combined

For once in Morocco - the price up front and obvious!

For once in Morocco – the price up front and obvious!

Any colour and any match

Any colour and any match

We strolled through for hours, just looking and tasting – especially tasting the mechoui – slow roast lamb which is lowered into pits in the floor of the tiny serving kiosks at the edge of the medina.

 

Mechoui Alley meat ready to go

Mechoui Alley meat ready to go

Mechoui ready for eating in the Marrakech medina - delicious

Mechoui ready for eating in the Marrakech medina – delicious

Mechoui pit in the middle of the kiosk - the lambs are slow baked in the hole heated by the hammam baths

Mechoui pit in the middle of the kiosk – the lambs are slow baked in the hole heated by the hammam baths

The clay pits steam day and night.

Mechoui is cooked in steaming pits heated from the fires of the neighbouring hammam (public baths)

Mechoui is cooked in steaming pits heated from the fires of the neighbouring hammam (public baths)

 

Whole lambs are raised from beneath the floor at lunchtime, then chunks are simply served in paper with fresh bread and cumin.

Mechoui lamb emerges from the steam pit

Mechoui lamb emerges from the steam pit

Mechoui piping hot is sold by weight in half kilo chunks

Mechoui piping hot is sold by weight in half kilo chunks

Mechoui (slow cooked lamb) mmmmh!

Mechoui (slow cooked lamb) mmmmh!

Deliciously tender and a perfect early lunch to set you up to feast on the excesses of medina life!

Thankfully the lamb was lovely and tender, so we didn’t need to avail ourselves of the second-hand teeth and dentures stall. We weren’t sure if the forceps were for pulling new stock or fitting the old ones!

Dentures for sale, or just single teeth if you prefer - forceps at the ready for fitting or exchange!

Dentures for sale, or just single teeth if you prefer – forceps at the ready for fitting or exchange!

In many ways life has barely changed in the square and medina. The Photography Museum exhibits from the early 20th century look strikingly similar to our ExtraordinaryPlaces exhibits from a century later.

A timeless place - this photo was taken in March 2014

A timeless place – this photo was taken in March 2014

And this photo was taken nearly a hundred years before

And this photo was taken nearly a hundred years before

The dress maybe more traditional, but the similarities are vivid in this image from the Photography Museum

The dress maybe more traditional, but the similarities are vivid in this image from the Photography Museum

 

The dress may be modern, but the street is unchanged

The dress may be modern, but the street is unchanged

 

There is so much more to see, so sit back and enjoy the show!

 

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The high road to Marrakech

 

The road to Marrakech is worth a mention in its own right, for the sheer beauty, variety and breathtaking scale. It was a truly gorgeous and memorable mountain drive.

We left the dunes of Merzouga and found ourselves crossing wide valley floors, at first still with hard packed desert crust – known as reg, but soon scrubby bushes began to sprout in the valley and the distant mountains had a touch of white on their peaks.

After the desert sands, the earth gives way to barren road and mountains

After the desert sands, the earth gives way to barren road and mountains

And then desert becomes scrubland and rocks turn to ice

And then desert becomes scrubland and rocks turn to ice

En route we passed through the beautiful Gorges du Dades, with its curious rock formations, glorious mud kasbahs, almond blossom and deep canyons.

Gorgeous colours, shapes and angles in the Gorges du Dades

Gorgeous colours, shapes and angles in the Gorges du Dades

In the Gorges du Dades the colours almost defy nature

In the Gorges du Dades the colours almost defy nature

The Gorges has every rock formation imaginable, from boulders to melting wax

The Gorges has every rock formation imaginable, from boulders to melting wax

The houses in the Gorges du Dades are almost invisible against their mother earth

The houses in the Gorges du Dades are almost invisible against their mother earth

The Gorges houses ancient buildings that look more like clay models

The Gorges houses ancient buildings that look more like clay models

Gripping the sides of the Gorges du Dades, strange rock formations are a characteristic of the valley

Gripping the sides of the Gorges du Dades, strange rock formations are a characteristic of the valley

Great builders created beautiful kasbahs straight from the mud and earth

Great builders created beautiful kasbahs straight from the mud and earth

We made a short stop at the most recognized kasbah in Morocco – Kasbah Amridil.

The most famous kasbah in Morocco - Amridil - as seen on a 50 dirham note

The most famous kasbah in Morocco – Amridil – as seen on a 50 dirham note

The modest courtyard of the Kasbah Amridil

The modest courtyard of the Kasbah Amridil

The mudbrick walls of Kasbah Amridil have stood the test of time - just!

The mudbrick walls of Kasbah Amridil have stood the test of time – just!

The music may have stopped but the kasbah Amridil lives on

The music may have stopped but the kasbah Amridil lives on

 Soon we started to climb, and despite our 2CV Charlie Charleston being fully loaded, his mighty 600cc engine, combined with Geoff’s navigation of every twist and turn – finally brought us over the highest road in Morocco – the Tizi n’Tichka at 2260m. 

Just the spot for a picnic in the High Atlas

Just the spot for a picnic in the High Atlas

The palms give way to rock and ice

The palms give way to rock and ice

The barren hills on the south side of the High Atlas

The barren hills on the south side of the High Atlas

There is always a place for a pot seller, even on the highest road in Marrakech!

There is always a place for a pot seller, even on the highest road in Marrakech!

The slopes are starting to show more vegatation

The slopes are starting to show more vegatation

The long, winding and glorious road through the mountains

The long, winding and glorious road through the mountains

Almost immediately we began to descend, we found ourselves in another world, very far from the desert roads and dunes to which we had become accustom. Verdant valleys, bright with green grass and fields, it felt like another country, not the other side of the mountain.

The southern slopes give way to green hills on the northern side

The southern slopes give way to green hills on the northern side

The sudden change is like a different country, with succulent cacti and rolling hills

The sudden change is like a different country, with succulent cacti and rolling hills

But the snowy Atlas Mountains never really leave you – even in the heart of Marrakech, they are quietly peering over your shoulder in the distance.

Welcome to Marrakech - with the snow caps faintly showing in the distance

Welcome to Marrakech – with the snow caps faintly showing in the distance

 

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The kindness of strangers

“It’s weird, he keeps coming along and giving us food” – a Canadian backpacker we had met anxiously and suspiciously complained to us one day about the generosity of Moroccans.
She and her boyfriend had been wild camping in the desert and a local man had dropped by with meat and fruit every other day.We tried to explain that he wasn’t expecting money or anything even more sinister, it is simply Moroccan hospitality at its finest.
We have seen the level of generosity first hand as well. In N’kob we stayed at the wonderful Auberge Ouadjou campsite – our favorite so far, partly because it was the first time we have camped on grass in months but mainly because of Mohammed, Idhir and Danielle.
Danielle is French and a regular visitor to Morocco and the Ouadjou campsite.  As a thank you for Geoff giving her a lift to the nearest ATM (70km away), we were invited to dinner with Idhir – part owner of the camp and a fine cook, Mohammed, who works at the camp and Danielle. It was delicious.
The next day, at Mohammed’s invitation we went for a picnic, weaving through the back street maze of N’kob, along the water channels of the palmerie and out to the shade of an acacia tree in a dry riverbed.
Guiding us through the back streets on the way to the picnic

Guiding us through the back streets on the way to the picnic

 

Walking through the palmerie

Walking through the palmerie

Our acacia tree picnic spot

Our acacia tree picnic spot

Mohammed magicked a huge rug from his backpack, teapot, glasses, kebab skewers and turkey to stick on them; bread and olives, complete with acacia thorn toothpicks, plucked fresh from the tree. Hefty flat stones made tables and kitchen tops.
Olives with acacia tree thorns as toothpicks

Olives with acacia tree thorns as toothpicks

Our picnic under the trees

Our picnic under the trees

Moroccan salad was sliced and diced on the stone and turkey brochettes and a teapot were soon sizzling and bubbling on the fire.
Freshly made salad and this morning's baked bread

Freshly made salad and this morning’s baked bread

Just as we finish eating, the recycling arrives!

Just as we finish eating, the recycling arrives!

The big shaggy Moroccan goats liked Mohammed's cooking too!JPG

The big shaggy Moroccan goats liked Mohammed’s cooking too!

Just because he was a fine looking goat

Just because he was a fine looking goat

 

It was a lovely afternoon, topped off with an invitation to have tea at Mohammed’s mum’s house.

We heard another story of a German couple who are walking across Morocco with just day bags. Each evening they stop at a village and ask if anyone will feed and house them for the night for a few dirhams payment – they have not gone hungry or sleepless yet.
Much is said of how you might be endlessly hassled and possibly ripped off in Morocco. Not enough is said about how ready people are to greet you, chat, share what they have and to welcome you into their home.
“Ten merte and shokran”, Morocco!  (Berber and Arabic for “Thank you” – sorry about the spelling!)
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Two go wild (camping) in Morocco

 

Our own camp fire, a night or two under the stars wild camping and then throw in some modern art as well –   it was an irresistible combination!

We posted one photo to Facebook a few days ago via our Instagram account, but it was such a lovely location and couple of days, we wanted to share some more of our experience.

The view from our terrace!

The view from our terrace!

 

Wild camping, or free camping, is not as easy to find in Europe and Morocco as it is in Australia, especially when you have a tent as obvious as Chubby Coleman!

One tent, one rock, one mountain

One tent, one rock, one mountain

But we found a spot in the valley of Les Roches Peints – the Painted Rocks – near Tafraoute and made camp.

The setting sun over some of the Painted Rocks

The setting sun over some of the Painted Rocks

 

The rocks were painted in 1984 by Belgian artist Jean Veran and apparently a team of Moroccan firemen…. They are dedicated to the woman he loved – she must have been bould(ered) over!

Pink, blue and black - not sure what that says about the artist's feelings!

Pink, blue and black – not sure what that says about the artist’s feelings!

She got painted rocks, we got sunset, stars, the moon and sunrise surrounded by the drama of the naturally red rocks. We think we got the better end of the deal – but check out the rest of the photos below and we will leave you all to be the judges – what do you think?

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Around and about near Agadir

 

Our journey south brought us to Agadir and a few days rest in a Berber tent  at the Paradis Nomade campsite, a few kilometers north- east  of the city.

Everyone seems to like this particular watering hole,

Birds on the edge of the swimming pool at Paradis Nomade

Birds on the edge of the swimming pool at Paradis Nomade

 

and even the heavens were smiling down on us.

Rainbow over the Atlas mountains

Rainbow over the Atlas mountains

 

We took time to unload Charlie and then go exploring. Paradise Valley was strongly recommended by our friends Szabina Mozes and Rino Koop so of course we had to go.

Turning inland about 20kms north of Agadir, you take the road up to Imouzzer, through the Anti Atlas mountains, high canyons, river flats and palm trees.

The hills and valley above Agadir, doted with Argan trees

The hills and valley above Agadir, doted with Argan trees

Switchbacks along Paradise Valley

Switchbacks along Paradise Valley

The deep canyon road twists and turns

The deep canyon road twists and turns

The scale is huge

The scale is huge

The rocks are different colours at every turn and across the millenia

The rocks are different colours at every turn and across the millennia

Looking back from the head of the valley at Imouzzer

Looking back from the head of the valley at Imouzzer

Doing business Paradise Valley style

Doing business Paradise Valley style

Charlie Charleston has been breaking altitude records daily!

Charlie Charleston has been breaking altitude records daily!

Almond blossom and lavendar make delicous honey in this region

Almond blossom and lavender make delicious honey in this region

Agadir in the far distance

Agadir in the far distance

 

Higher than the clouds in the Anti Atlas mountains

Higher than the clouds in the Anti Atlas mountains

 

Back down the to coast and more of the increasingly common Moroccan driving experiences

 

If they aren't up trees, they're on the road!

If they aren’t up trees, they’re on the road!

 

The rider looks to be working harder than the donkey!

The rider looks to be working harder than the donkey!

Although we had been warned that driving in Morocco is a hair-raising venture, we haven’t found it to be so … yet!

Warning!

Warning!

The roads can be narrow, uneven and potholed in places, the traffic (human and animal) can be challenging and reluctant to give ground, but it is far from the motoring terror that we had been anticipating… watch this space and of course we concede the bit about getting stuck in the sand!

South of the dunes that sucked Charlie into their grasp is the seaside town of Tifnit, and it is about as seaside as you can get.

Tifnit is perched on a crumbling spit of sand jutting into the ocean

Tifnit is perched on a crumbling spit of sand jutting into the ocean

From a distance Tifnit looks idyllic, but it is slowly sinking into the sea

From a distance Tifnit looks idyllic, but it is slowly sinking into the sea

Walking through the village means walking through a sand dune

Tifnit - the village is losing its battle with the sand

The village is losing its battle with the sand

Tifnit - a village gradually being engulfed by the sand

They put a colourful face on it!

Even the boats are landlocked now

A ship of the desert and a beached boat at Tifnit

A ship of the desert and a beached boat at Tifnit

 

Agadir itself is a very modern affair – built almost entirely from scratch after an earthquake destroyed the original city in 1960. The new town has wide boulevards and a retro vibe from its 60s re-birth, but its still the same Morocco underneath.

 

The main road into Agadir - still full of sheep

The main road into Agadir – still full of sheep

Everyone loves Charlie Charleston

Everyone loves Charlie Charleston

It is a cosmopolitan place, where Saturday night promenading takes place under the dramatically illuminated hillside declaration “God, Country, King”

God, Country, King - inscribed on the hillside in Agadir

God, Country, King – inscribed on the hillside in Agadir

Come days end the beach is only good for one thing in Morocco – football is not a national sport it is a national obsession! Even high in the rocky mountains space will be cleared for a pitch!

Moroccans LOVE football!

Moroccans LOVE football!

But the countryside and magnificent long views are never far away

Carrying herbs to market
Carrying herbs to market
Working hard
Working hard
Kasbahs dot the hillsides
Kasbahs dot the hillsides
More modern Moroccan hillside homes and suculent cacti
More modern Moroccan hillside homes and succulent cacti
Just one of the long and winding roads
Just one of the long and winding roads
The road less travelled!
The road less travelled!
People still live here!
People still live here!

 

As you can imagine, every turn is a delight or fascination for the eye and the camera. If you want to see more of anything in particular, post a comment and we will be happy to oblige.

Our travels are now taking us inland from Agadir, further south and to the desert, there is plenty more to come!