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Fast but not furious in Northern Thailand

I’ve just returned to Bangkok after 4 days riding around Northern Thailand. What a blast! If you enjoy hassle free motorcycle riding on great roads, then this is one for you.

Cultivated valley on route 107

Cultivated valley on route 107

Sara was out of Bangkok for a week, so I took the opportunity to take a side trip to the north. I’ve been to Bangkok many times, including a few short-term work stints, so it was good to travel to places unknown.

I caught the overnight train from Bangkok up to Chiang Mai. The train ride is a great trip by itself. I booked a 2nd class seat, no air con, but the windows open so you get a good breeze and much better views than the fixed windows in the a/c section. The seats are equivalent to business class seats on an international airline, big comfy recliners with loads of legroom. The trip took 16 hours, departing at 10 pm and arriving at 2 pm the next day. At lot of the journey there’s only one line, so you spend some time waiting in a siding for another train coming down the line to pass. There’s a dining car serving good cheap and tasty Thai food. The temperature dropped as the train made its way slowly into the mountains. By early morning it was cool and foggy so I was glad I’d brought a fleece jacket with me. I could have closed the window, but was enjoying the wafts of pine, wood smoke and frangipani, though I could have done without the olfactory evidence of a pig farm nearby at one stage.

 

The overnight train from Bangkok

 

At Chiang Mai I grabbed a tuk-tuk to C & P Dirt and Road Bike Rental and picked up a Kawasaki EF6n 650. They also provided a helmet, jacket and gloves. The 650 is about the largest capacity bike you can hire around these parts. There is one shop, Tony’s Big Bikes, run by a couple of English guys, that has a couple of BMW F800GS, but they are quite pricey and booked out months in advance. After a bit of paperwork and taking pictures of all the pre-existing scuffs and scratches on the bike I headed north out of Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai on route 118. It’s a main road, so not challenging, but an enjoyable cruisey ride all the same. I hadn’t slept much the night before so thought it would be a good idea to have an easy ride so start with.

 

Kawasaki EF6n 650

 

I arrived in Chiang Rai just on dusk and I found a room in the centre of town for 250 Thai baht, about AUS$9.85 or €6.80. Had a quick shower then strolled around the night market near the bus station. There was a stage set up at one end with several bands taking turns doing country and western Thai style. I had a great dinner at one of the many street food vendors. Set up around the market. Its one of the things I love about Thailand, the best and cheapest food is found at the smallest stalls. You can eat a 3-course meal for a couple of bucks. After dinner I bought a bottle of SangSom, Thailand’s favorite rum and retired to the balcony back at my hotel.

Buddist shrine south of Mae Hong Son

 

Chiang Rai is the northernmost large city in Thailand, on the edge of the Golden Triangle, one of Asia’s main opium producing areas. It also used to be famous for its production of highly potent Buddha sticks. So the next morning in the interests of cultural immersion I lit up a big spliff of highlands Buddha, chased the dragon and skulled half a bottle of SangSom, then hit the road with tyres spinning and pupils pinning.

(ASIO, if you’re reading this, I’m kidding ok, lighten up! It’s for dramatic effect. When I arrive back in Australia I don’t want to hear, “Sir, please step into this room” and the sound of a latex glove being pulled on. Plus, it sounds way more cool and Zaphod Beeblebrox than I had a banana smoothie and checked the exclusions on my travel insurance)

A mountain lake near the Laos border

I continued north from Chiang Rai on route 1 for a while, then turned east onto route 1089, close to the Laos border. This is a secondary road with little traffic. In a few places it’s within sight of the Laos border and there are a few military checkpoints and the occasional truckload of soldiers. By the looks on the faces of the soldiers in the back of the trucks as I went barreling past them I was enjoying my early morning ride a hell of a lot more than they were. The first part of the route is a long wide valley with terraced rice paddies and small herds of water buffalo standing around nonchalantly flicking their ears. At the end of a series of valleys, route 1089 becomes route 107 and rises into forested hills, with the corners getting tighter and tighter as you get closer to the top of the ranges. From there it drops down towards Chiang Do. I’m told there is an amazing limestone cave complex at Chiang Do with over 12km of stalactite strewn tunnels to wander, but I didn’t stop to admire them. I was heading south to meet route 1095, the start of the famous Mae Hong Son loop, a motorcycling paradise. According to Wikitravel and Lonely Planet the Mae Hong Son loop takes a minimum of 4 days to complete. It was already mid afternoon when I turned onto route 1095 and my train back to Bangkok was in 2 ½ days so I thought I’d better rack up some km’s and leave the sightseeing to another visit. (Oh yes, I definitely want to revisit this ride!)

Sweeping bends following the river

I don’t know who counted them, but according to Lonely Planet and Wikiktravel there are 762 bends along the 97 km stretch of road between the start of route 1095 and the town of Pai. I can attest that I thoroughly enjoyed every one of those 762 bends. The road is well maintained (mostly), there are no speed cameras, and the police don’t bat an eyelid at behaviour that would get you arrested on the spot in Australia. Earlier in the day I’d overtaken a local guy on his scooter who was riding flat out with one hand on his head holding his straw hat. Two corners later I came up hard behind a Toyota Hilux police car with 2 police standing in the back with machine guns. I grabbed a handful of brakes and waited for a legal place to overtake. Suddenly the guy on the scooter overtakes all of us on double lines, around a corner, still flat out and still holding his hat on with one hand. The police watch with looks of complete boredom. Ok, I’m getting a sense of how the game is played around here and I like it. It’s reminiscent of that scene from Mad Max 1, Captain Fifi Macaffee “As long as the paperwork’s clean, you boys can do what you want out there”

I should add a qualifier to that. You can do what you want out there, as long as you maintain some common sense and remember the laws of physics still apply. I saw 3 guys on Honda CBX 500’s riding at speed, wearing shorts and thongs, nothing else, not even a helmet. They must think that Thailand has inflatable trucks and marshmallow asphalt.

I arrived in Pai late afternoon and got a great room at The Burger House. 350 baht for a queen size bed in a lovely wood paneled room with a large rattan ceiling fan and a balcony overlooking the street. It even came with a guard dog, which slept next to my bike all night.

The Burger House at Pai

 

The Burger House guard dog

Pai is a lively place that feels like Thailand’s answer to Byron Bay. There are lots of international visitors and an eclectic mix of street vendors at the night market. As well as the usual extensive range of great Thai food, there were stalls selling tacos, burritos, lasagna, even English style battered fish and chips. The chicken burrito with guacamole and chilli Thai sauce was delicious. From eavesdropping on a few conversations as I was strolling around, I gathered there was a larger than usual crowd in town for the full moon party happening the following night.

I’d been looking at the Wikitravel article about the Mae Hong Son Loop and saw that it had the ride from Pai to Mae Hong Son as a 1 day ride and the ride from Mae Hong Son to Mae Sariang as another days ride. So, if I rode from Pai to Mae Sariang in one day then I’d be on track to be back in Chiang Mai in time to catch the afternoon train I was booked on.

This was the best days ride of the trip. Just glorious! Not a dull section of the road the whole day. It was cool in the morning when I left Pai. The first few hours are up in the mountains, riding through the forests with long views across the mountains and mist in the valleys. As the day warmed up there was the smell of pine and wood smoke, dappled light through the trees and almost no other traffic. Whatever riding conditions you like, they’re here. Twisty mountain climbs and descents, long sweeping curves along the river flats, the occasional straight stretches to really open the throttle. I probably should have stopped more often to take pictures of the stunning scenery, but I was having too much fun. I didn’t feel like I was pushed for time, and had leisurely coffee breaks every 40 minutes or so. I stopped for lunch in Mae Hong Son and was surprised to find there’s an airport literally in the center of town. If a plane overshot the runway it would have come through the back wall of the café where I ate.

The road from Mae Hong Son to Mae Sariang is less mountainous than the mornings ride so I made good time and was in Mae Sariang by mid afternoon. I got a room at the River Bank Guest House, overlooking the Yuam River. After a quick shower and a stroll down the main street to find my favorite street food, grilled pork skewers, I settled on the balcony with a book and a SangSom rum and coke to watch the sunset.

Drinks on the balcony at Mae Sariang overlooking the Yuam River

The next morning was a lazy, late start. An hour spent drinking café lattes and watching the goats frolicking and foraging on the opposite riverbank. I was only a 3 hours ride away from Chiang Mai, but I wanted to take a detour up to Doi Ithanon, Thailand’s highest mountain. It was only a 100km round trip, up and back, and I didn’t have to be at the train station in Chiang Mai till 5pm, so what the heck.

River Bank Guest House at Mae Sariang

You’re probably getting bored with reading about the fantastic riding conditions. You’re thinking, “Yeah, yeah, more twisting turning weaving, loads of fun, we get the picture” Suffice it to say, it was great. I followed route 108 east out of Mae Sariang for a couple of hours then turned left onto route 1009 towards Doi Ithanon. After about 10 km’s I came to the entrance to the Doi Ithanon National Park. As I was paying the entrance fee I asked how far to the summit of Doi Inthanon and was told 40 km, one hour. Hmm, one hour? Perhaps the road is steeper and more winding than I’d first thought. Oh well, if it took an hour I’d still just make it to drop off the bike and high tail it to the train station if I got to the top, turned around and came straight back down. As it turned out, the 40 km was true, but 20 minutes later I was in the parking area at the summit. The temperature dropped remarkably in those 20 minutes and it was the first time I’d wanted to keep the jacket on once stopped. After a quick look around and a photo to show I’d been there I rode a few kilometers back down the hill to admire the gardens at the twin temples.

Doi Ithanon, the highest mountain in Thailand

Naphaphonphumisiri Chedi near the summit of Doi Ithanon

Naphamethinidon Chedi near the summit of Doi Ithanon

Another 45 km’s down the mountain and I was back on route 108. From there it’s a straight, dull, four lane divided road most of the may back to Chiang Mai, so nothing to mention there. I dropped the bike off with time to spare, grabbed a late lunch, and hopped a tuk-tuk back to the train station. Another 16 hours on the train and I was back in Bangkok by 10am the next morning.

Looking very pleased

As I mentioned earlier the guides say the Mae Hong Son loop is a minimum of 4 days, but if you’re just after a great ride without stopping for sightseeing you could do it comfortably in 2 days. That still allows plenty of time for leisurely coffee breaks, meals stops and still be in time for sunset G&T’s.

 

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A quart into a pint pot

Houdini and a coffin – phah. The TARDIS, yeah, yeah. Geoff Nimmo, our gear for a year and a 2CV – now THAT is a magic trick worth seeing.

Read on and you might even win something!

So, this is all we own.

ALL WE OWN 2

ALL WE OWN (2)

Yes, we did actually unpack it all and arrange it – for YOU!  Now you too can see just how many underpants and how much nail varnish you need to travel the world!

This is all we own, packed into bags.

 

ALL WE PACKED

ALL WE PACKED

 

This is the boot (trunk if you are American) of our 2CV – with 6 eggs and a coffee pot for scale.

 

ALL WE HAVE ROOM FOR IN THE BOOT

ALL WE HAVE ROOM FOR IN THE BOOT

 

All we own goes in there and on the back seat…. It really does. See!

 

ALL WE STACKED

ALL WE STACKED

 

Sardines quiver at the mention of Geoff Nimmo’s name.

We are often asked how we decided what to pack, so just for fun, we thought we would not just show you all we are travelling with on our Grand Tour, but give you a chance to profit too.

In the spirit of ‘guess the weight of the pig” – we challenge you to guess the amount in the ugly duck!  Using the first photo from this blog and the close-ups below, see if you can guess (or count if you have small children you can bribe, are off work sick or have no friends and nothing else to do) how many items we fit into Charlie Charleston.

We are going to run this little competition until the end of June, and whoever gets closest to the number will get a nice bottle of whiskey/wine/perfume/video/book or something else of their choosing.

Post your number in the comment section below, or on our Facebook page. In the spirit of full disclosure, we should add that since these photographs were taken, we have bought a toaster, a pressure cooker, two new therma-rests, two camel and goat hair blankets and a hot water bottle (there was still snow on the Atlas  mountains), but thankfully Geoff did get rid of five pairs of socks to make room.

BEDS

BEDS

CLOTHES & TOILETRIES (ALL)

CLOTHES & TOILETRIES (ALL)

 

CLOTHES (GEOFF 1)

CLOTHES (GEOFF 1)

CLOTHES (GEOFF 2)

CLOTHES (GEOFF 2)

CLOTHES (SARA 1)

CLOTHES (SARA 1)

CLOTHES (SARA 2)

CLOTHES (SARA 2)

CLOTHES (SARA JEWELLERY)

CLOTHES (SARA JEWELLERY)

CLOTHES (TOILETRIES)

CLOTHES (TOILETRIES)

COMPUTERS AND ELECTRONICS

COMPUTERS AND ELECTRONICS

KITCHEN (ALL)

KITCHEN (ALL)

KITCHEN (CLOSE-UP 1)

KITCHEN (CLOSE-UP 1)

KITCHEN (CLOSE-UP 2)

KITCHEN (CLOSE-UP 2)

KITCHEN (CUTLERY & PLATES)

KITCHEN (CUTLERY & PLATES)

KITCHEN (TOAST TOPPING)

KITCHEN (TOAST TOPPING)

MAPS

MAPS

STORAGE (CUPBOARD & BAGS)

STORAGE (CUPBOARD & BAGS)

STORAGE (SAFES & BAG)

STORAGE (SAFES & BAG)

TOOLS (ROPES, SPADES,CABLES)

TOOLS (ROPES, SPADES,CABLES)

TOOLS

TOOLS

 

 

 

 

 

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The Sahara

Our first attempt to drive amongst the dunes of the Sahara left us stuck like a turtle on a rock and rescued by camel feeders – but we were undaunted!
Yep, we got bogged again!

Yep, we got bogged again!

Getting a tow from the camel feeders

Getting a tow from the camel feeders

At the end of the main street in M’Hamid is the desert. One minute you are driving on Tarmac and the next on sand.
M'hamid - the last town on the map

M’hamid – the last town on the map

We trundled for a couple of kilometers until a sudden hummock of sand stopped us in our tracks. Thankfully it was feeding time for the camels and some cheery handlers offered Geoff a tow rope with a metal hook more like the end of a coat hanger. But it did the job and we were off again, finding a suitably Charlie-friendly dune for a few shameless  photo ops!
Geoff in traditional headgear in the dunes

Geoff in traditional headgear in the dunes

You might laugh at the headdress now, but believe us, it is much better than a scarf and baseball cap in the desert.

Charlie at the base of the dune

Charlie at the base of the dune

Charlie couldn't shake off the camels

Charlie couldn’t shake off the camels

Camel tracks going up the dune

Camel tracks going up the dune

Next stop N’Kob, where we saw the less exciting side of the desert. A dust cloud enveloped us and everything else for three days.
There are mountains inside that dust cloud

There are mountains inside that dust cloud

Trying to shake off some of the dust

Trying to shake off some of the dust

The sun blotted out by Saharan dust

The sun blotted out by Saharan dust

The sun was blotted out with a sickly yellow coating and even the view across the street was blank. Our tent Chubby Coleman was encrusted, but did a fine job keeping it on the outside when expensive motor homes were inundated.

After two days we could see a little more, but it was still through a veil of sand

Desert as far as you can see through the dust clouds

Desert as far as you can see through the dust clouds

 

As the skies cleared we left N’kob and headed further east. Finally in Merzouga we could really say we were in the dunes.
The view from the terrace!

The view from the terrace!

Erg Chebbi is a series of dunes that sit alone in the south east of Morocco. So the story goes that when a wealthy family would not give hospitality to an old woman and her son, God was offended and buried them under a huge pile of sand.
They are far more beautiful than their rather macabre legend might suggest – with golden, pink and ochre hues that warmed, cooled and glowed as the day grew long.
Kasbah in the dunes

Kasbah in the dunes

Pink gold at sunset

Pink gold at sunset

Some really were golden yellow

Some really were golden yellow

The pink and yellow dunes

The pink and yellow dunes

The rich colours of  sunset

The rich colours of sunset

The setting sun over the dunes

The setting sun over the dunes

The desert here is a multi-coloured affair. Blackened hard sand covers much of the land, contrasting against the golden, pinky dunes and crushed, whitened dirt roads, known as pistes.
The sun-blackened hard sand - reg, contrasts with the soft, golden sahel sand

The sun-blackened hard sand – reg, contrasts with the soft, golden sahel sand

The white sand road through the black sand desert

The white sand road through the black sand desert

Walking in the dunes was easier than expected, with the top sand crust hard and impacted, except where the ubiquitous 4x4s and quad bikes had been. There are moves to ban both from the dunes because of the damage they cause. It is claimed that Saharan dust levels have increased more than 1000% since the 1950s and much of that has been attributed to the breakup of the sand crust from vehicles. Camels don’t damage the surface in the same way and look and sound a lot better too!
Finally in the dunes

Finally in the dunes

Standing in the Sahara desert - tick!

Standing in the Sahara desert – tick!

Where's a camel when you need one?

Where’s a camel when you need one?

Almost directly in front of our tent was a tempting and deceptively easy looking climb.
It didn't look too bad from here

It didn’t look too bad from here

We couldn’t have been more wrong! One step forward, 9/10ths step back, while sinking up to our ankles on a never-ending ridge was lung-poppingly hard.
It doesn't look that high, does it?

It doesn’t look that high, does it?

It still wasn't too bad from here

It still wasn’t too bad from here

It was starting to get hard from here

It was starting to get hard from here

Nearly there

Nearly there

Nearly, nearly there

Nearly, nearly there

Now, he's made it!

Now, he’s made it!

 

I had to stop because it was too hard on my injured knee. Geoff carried on and, despite a low point when he was overtaken by a small, but surprisingly speedy beetle, finally made it to the top!
Speedy beetle

Speedy beetle

The dot on the ridge is Geoff, still going

The dot on the ridge is Geoff, still going

At least one of us made it up there and we both concluded the dunes  are a lot easier on the eye than they are on the knees.
The slide show has plenty more pictures for you to enjoy from the comfort of your chair.
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Two go wild (camping) in Morocco

 

Our own camp fire, a night or two under the stars wild camping and then throw in some modern art as well –   it was an irresistible combination!

We posted one photo to Facebook a few days ago via our Instagram account, but it was such a lovely location and couple of days, we wanted to share some more of our experience.

The view from our terrace!

The view from our terrace!

 

Wild camping, or free camping, is not as easy to find in Europe and Morocco as it is in Australia, especially when you have a tent as obvious as Chubby Coleman!

One tent, one rock, one mountain

One tent, one rock, one mountain

But we found a spot in the valley of Les Roches Peints – the Painted Rocks – near Tafraoute and made camp.

The setting sun over some of the Painted Rocks

The setting sun over some of the Painted Rocks

 

The rocks were painted in 1984 by Belgian artist Jean Veran and apparently a team of Moroccan firemen…. They are dedicated to the woman he loved – she must have been bould(ered) over!

Pink, blue and black - not sure what that says about the artist's feelings!

Pink, blue and black – not sure what that says about the artist’s feelings!

She got painted rocks, we got sunset, stars, the moon and sunrise surrounded by the drama of the naturally red rocks. We think we got the better end of the deal – but check out the rest of the photos below and we will leave you all to be the judges – what do you think?

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Around and about near Agadir

 

Our journey south brought us to Agadir and a few days rest in a Berber tent  at the Paradis Nomade campsite, a few kilometers north- east  of the city.

Everyone seems to like this particular watering hole,

Birds on the edge of the swimming pool at Paradis Nomade

Birds on the edge of the swimming pool at Paradis Nomade

 

and even the heavens were smiling down on us.

Rainbow over the Atlas mountains

Rainbow over the Atlas mountains

 

We took time to unload Charlie and then go exploring. Paradise Valley was strongly recommended by our friends Szabina Mozes and Rino Koop so of course we had to go.

Turning inland about 20kms north of Agadir, you take the road up to Imouzzer, through the Anti Atlas mountains, high canyons, river flats and palm trees.

The hills and valley above Agadir, doted with Argan trees

The hills and valley above Agadir, doted with Argan trees

Switchbacks along Paradise Valley

Switchbacks along Paradise Valley

The deep canyon road twists and turns

The deep canyon road twists and turns

The scale is huge

The scale is huge

The rocks are different colours at every turn and across the millenia

The rocks are different colours at every turn and across the millennia

Looking back from the head of the valley at Imouzzer

Looking back from the head of the valley at Imouzzer

Doing business Paradise Valley style

Doing business Paradise Valley style

Charlie Charleston has been breaking altitude records daily!

Charlie Charleston has been breaking altitude records daily!

Almond blossom and lavendar make delicous honey in this region

Almond blossom and lavender make delicious honey in this region

Agadir in the far distance

Agadir in the far distance

 

Higher than the clouds in the Anti Atlas mountains

Higher than the clouds in the Anti Atlas mountains

 

Back down the to coast and more of the increasingly common Moroccan driving experiences

 

If they aren't up trees, they're on the road!

If they aren’t up trees, they’re on the road!

 

The rider looks to be working harder than the donkey!

The rider looks to be working harder than the donkey!

Although we had been warned that driving in Morocco is a hair-raising venture, we haven’t found it to be so … yet!

Warning!

Warning!

The roads can be narrow, uneven and potholed in places, the traffic (human and animal) can be challenging and reluctant to give ground, but it is far from the motoring terror that we had been anticipating… watch this space and of course we concede the bit about getting stuck in the sand!

South of the dunes that sucked Charlie into their grasp is the seaside town of Tifnit, and it is about as seaside as you can get.

Tifnit is perched on a crumbling spit of sand jutting into the ocean

Tifnit is perched on a crumbling spit of sand jutting into the ocean

From a distance Tifnit looks idyllic, but it is slowly sinking into the sea

From a distance Tifnit looks idyllic, but it is slowly sinking into the sea

Walking through the village means walking through a sand dune

Tifnit - the village is losing its battle with the sand

The village is losing its battle with the sand

Tifnit - a village gradually being engulfed by the sand

They put a colourful face on it!

Even the boats are landlocked now

A ship of the desert and a beached boat at Tifnit

A ship of the desert and a beached boat at Tifnit

 

Agadir itself is a very modern affair – built almost entirely from scratch after an earthquake destroyed the original city in 1960. The new town has wide boulevards and a retro vibe from its 60s re-birth, but its still the same Morocco underneath.

 

The main road into Agadir - still full of sheep

The main road into Agadir – still full of sheep

Everyone loves Charlie Charleston

Everyone loves Charlie Charleston

It is a cosmopolitan place, where Saturday night promenading takes place under the dramatically illuminated hillside declaration “God, Country, King”

God, Country, King - inscribed on the hillside in Agadir

God, Country, King – inscribed on the hillside in Agadir

Come days end the beach is only good for one thing in Morocco – football is not a national sport it is a national obsession! Even high in the rocky mountains space will be cleared for a pitch!

Moroccans LOVE football!

Moroccans LOVE football!

But the countryside and magnificent long views are never far away

Carrying herbs to market
Carrying herbs to market
Working hard
Working hard
Kasbahs dot the hillsides
Kasbahs dot the hillsides
More modern Moroccan hillside homes and suculent cacti
More modern Moroccan hillside homes and succulent cacti
Just one of the long and winding roads
Just one of the long and winding roads
The road less travelled!
The road less travelled!
People still live here!
People still live here!

 

As you can imagine, every turn is a delight or fascination for the eye and the camera. If you want to see more of anything in particular, post a comment and we will be happy to oblige.

Our travels are now taking us inland from Agadir, further south and to the desert, there is plenty more to come!

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A nomad’s life

What does it mean to be a nomad? We have lived for months with no home,  so it seemed fitting to try a real nomad tent for a few days..

The hillside view from our Berber tent

The hillside view from our Berber tent

The Berber tent we stayed in, at the Paradis Nomade campsite north east of Agadir, has a low mud wall on three sides, over which is draped the inner and outer skins of the shelter.

The inner skin – a white cotton cover called a haiti – is overlaid with a heavy woven drape, which comes down the the ground on all sides and is thrown back over the top of the frame during the day, to give access to the tent.

Tassles decorate the down straps of the tent

Tassels decorate the down straps of the tent

 

The down straps are what the front drape lies across when the “door” is down and also help to give tension to the tent. Often they are decorated with coloured tassels and embroidery.

The bowed span, held up with two struts, keeps the classic Berber shape to the tent

The bowed span, held up with two struts, keeps the classic Berber shape to the tent

Rose in front of our Berber tent

Rose in front of our Berber tent

Close up of the woven cover of the berber tent

Close up of the woven cover of the berber tent

A main bed and plenty of day beds means one tent can sleep up to eight people

A main bed and plenty of day beds means one tent can sleep up to eight people

 

Of course true nomads don’t settle for long and even though it was a pure indulgence for us to sleep in a bed and not have to raise our own tent each night, it is nothing like the real thing – which we have seen, shielding families from the sun and wind in the most barren of places.

Berber tent in the desert region

Berber tent in the desert region

Like the Berbers, we too have already moved on.  Check out the story and pictures from our travels in and around Agadir.