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Lovely lizards and perfect pipes

 

Eus is officially one of the prettiest villages in France. One of the things we particularly loved about it was their gloriously green- glazed and fish-faced terracotta drainpipes..

 

As you approach the village along an inevitably winding road, it makes the perfect pretty village view – clinging to the hillside in a pleasingly symmetrical way.

But the real pleasure is just strolling amongst its ancient stones and archways;

 

View from the village walls

View from the village walls

Geoff at the bottom of one of the cobbled streets

Geoff at the bottom of one of the cobbled streets

Almost unfeasibly narrow streets, but still full of charm

Almost unfeasibly narrow streets, but still full of charm

 

scratching the ears of the dozens of local cats;

 

A fine feline

A fine feline

admiring the beautifully glazed terracotta down pipes and even guttering;

Admiring the handiwork

Admiring the handiwork

Glorious glazing

Glorious glazing

 

Bare terracotta and glazed green together, although the fish head has had a hard life

Bare terracotta and glazed green together, although the fish head has had a hard life

the profusion of artistic geckos – the town symbol;

 

Eus gecko

Eus gecko

Gecko window grilles and glazed downpipes - they've got the lot!

Gecko window grilles and glazed downpipes – they’ve got the lot!

 

the lovely  street name plaques – all boasting the little lizard in impressive alphabetic poses

 

I've never seen a gecko do that!

I’ve never seen a gecko do that!

More gecko art and design

More gecko art and design

and simply the pride and attention to detail that the village has.

 

Elegance and charm

Elegance and charm

Admittedly everywhere was shut – including the much boasted about church, but the coffee and the stroll put smiles on our faces. Thanks Eus!

 

No one is getting into the church with those battlements (and opening hours)

No one is getting into the church with those battlements (and opening hours)

Mount Canigou in the distance

Mount Canigou in the distance

More lovely views across the valley

More lovely views across the valley

 

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No kidding, you won’t believe what’s in the car wash

 

“I’m just going to swing in here and give Charlie a quick rinse” said Geoff, as we headed into Prades, the nearest largish town to do some shopping.

 

It was hot and I was sleepy, until he added “There are two goats in the car wash and a llama under the tree.”

Just a rinse?

Just a rinse?

Car wash neighhhhbours

Car wash neighhhhbours

And so they were. The goats were roaming free and the llama was tied up under a tree alongside the butane bottles.

Not so much a tiger in your tank, but a llama in your gas bottle

Not so much a tiger in your tank, but a llama in your gas bottle

As you might imagine – a series of bad jokes followed about smelling like a goat and needing a wash.

They upped and huffed-off for a while once Geoff fired up the hoses, but came back for a final inspection just before we left!

Deux Chevre, Oh!

Deux Chevre, Oh!

Is that a 2CV in the car wash?

Is that a 2CV in the car wash?

Staring at goats

Staring at goats

The humdrum explanation is that there is a circus in town and they were being let out for some air …. No, not at the tyre pump….

 

 

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Our home is our castle!

“Just keep driving all the way up through the village and it’s the castle at the top”.  The castle?? I thought you said we were staying at your mum’s house!

 

But sure enough, we’re safe and sound in a 12th century fortification as I type….

The entrance archway to El Castell

The entrance archway to El Castell

Romans, barons and revolutionaries have come before us – unlike them, we promised to clean up after ourselves!

Our route from Spain was peppered with rain showers and the Pryenees looked more and more brooding as we navigated the ever-shrinking roads.

 

The brooding Pryenees

The brooding Pryenees

More narrow navigation for Geoff and Charlie Charleston

More narrow navigation for Geoff and Charlie Charleston

Not much sun in the flowers

Not much sun in the flowers

 

When we finally arrived in Joch, the steep hill was too much for Charlie Charleston and we got stuck half way up. We had to drop back down to the bottom road and come in from a different approach – good job we weren’t trying to invade! If we were, we could have used Alex’s handy map of the area.

Joch invasion map

Joch invasion map

 

But finally we arrived! Peering down over the tiny village of Joch (population 146) El Castell has had a mixed and sometimes turbulent history.

Peering down from on high

Peering down from on high

Battle scars on the inside

Battle scars on the inside

Built in the 12th century on the site of a Roman fortress, it became the seat of a succession of barons until the last was un-seated and probably beheaded during the French Revolution. The locals sacked the castle and left it to fall into ruins. More than two hundred years later at the turn of this century, our neighbour Bruno bought up the ruins and began to renovate it, selling off sections to families including Alex’s.

Painted tile highlighting the hills beyond

Painted tile highlighting the hills beyond

Sun-drenched in Mediterranean hues

Sun-drenched in Mediterranean hues

While parts are still a work in progress, El Castell has generated an easy and friendly community feeling and has been a wonderful base from which to explore the lovely Pyrenees Orientales. Bruno even has a donkey he let us pet!

Bruno's donkey and friend

Bruno’s donkey and friend

Once more – big thanks to Alex and his family for their generosity. We’ll be posting some stories from our visits in the coming days, but for now – share our enjoyment of Joch with some additional photographs.

 

More narrow navigation for Geoff and Charlie CharlestonNot much sun in the flowersThe entrance archway to El Castell
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Birthday treats

After all my talk of having stars fall out of the sky for me on my birthday – we thought that we should prepare properly. So we packed beer, gin and a kettle!

Although we are camped in the mountains there is still a little ambient light coming from the nearby village, so Geoff and I went on a reccie the day before for the best viewing spot…..

Finding the right spot for viewing

Finding the right spot for viewing

What about the view from here?

What about the view from here?

Not much more than a cow track

Not much more than a cow track

 

helped by some locals who knew the hillside tracks better than us.

No, this way is better!

No, this way is better!

 

We camped out late into the night and although we didn’t see as many meteors as we had hoped, we still had fun. I managed to take my first (not very good) photo of star trails.

Star trails

Star trails

The remote didn’t work so I taped it open with a bolt and some gaffer tape and let it run for forty minutes. Any suggestions of how to do it more professionally are welcome!

During the day Geoff found a donkey farm for me to go and pet baby donkeys – too cute for words – and their troll-dog buddy who lived in a wall!

Cute birthday donkeys

Cute birthday donkeys

Why the long face?

Why the long face?

 

Donkey's noses are the best

Donkey’s noses are the best

Troll-dog

Troll-dog

 

Medieval troll-dog

Medieval troll-dog

 

Then in the wee small hours we got up again and watched some more meteors – what a great birthday in an extraordinary place!

Thanks for all my birthday wishes – today we are off to France… more coming soon!

Cute birthday donkeysWhy the long face?Donkey's noses are the bestTroll-dogMedieval troll-dogNo, this way is better!Looking out above OixFinding the right spot for viewingNot much more than a cow trackStar trails