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A corking good tale!

This humble little lump of woody fibre that takes decades to create and more often than not, is then just tossed in the bin overnight, is worth a second glance.

The majority of the world’s cork production is in southern Portugal, so we got the chance to do just that.

At first sight it looks like any other bark

At first sight it looks like any other bark

When you touch the bark it even feels like cork on the outside

When you touch the bark it even feels like cork on the outside

 

It generates one of the most diverse ecologies in Europe, gives employment to 60,000 people, stops up 60% of wine bottles, is fire retardant, impermeable and it floats – not much can compare to cork for its diverse range of uses. It takes about 25 years for the cork oak to be ready for its first harvest. The bark is then carefully peeled off with a special axe, leaving a deep red trunk behind, which eventually dulls to brown over the years.

The harvest marks are clear

The harvest marks are clear

Up close to the harvest

Up close to the harvest

The first harvest is thought to be of lesser quality and is called “male” cork. The good quality material comes after the second or third harvest and is rather evocatively known at “gentle” cork. A harvested tree is left to rest for ten years between each peeling and lives for around 200 years.

It will be many more years before the next harvest

It will be many more years before the next harvest

After the harvest

After the harvest

It’s a two billion dollar industry that only ever seems to be seen growing on small acreages, on the sides of the road, in small yards and family farms.

Looks familiar

Looks familiar

 

Cork production has been hit by the use of screw tops in the wine industry, but the versatile cladding is determined to keep afloat. Corks’ green credentials have helped its PR push – the low carbon footprint and sustainable harvests, as well as the natural habitat it nurtures – who could possibly prefer metal! Any Australian couldn’t help but feel at home in the cork forests of Southern Portugal – as they grow alongside huge Aussie gum trees, giving off a great eucalypt scent as you pass through.

Geoff and Dougal amongst the cork trees

Geoff and Dougal amongst the cork trees

Cork and Australian eucalypt grow side by side in the hills

Cork and Australian eucalypt grow side by side in the hills

 

Corks aren’t just for bottling – although that is this the primary usage – it has been used in musical instruments, shuttlecocks, heat shields, laser printers, transmission systems, a boat (honestly – 165,321 wine corks=one boat ), fishing floats, and even fashion.

Even cork boots - of course!

Even cork boots – of course!

Its impermeable and thermal properties make it useful in the house and building trade, as waterproof flooring, table mats, mixed with concrete to give better insulation or even just raw.

The Convent of the Capuchos, or Cork Convent in the Sintra hills above Cascais, was built in 1560 for Franciscan monks, and uses the bark extensively as cladding, chairs, doors and window linings.

Doors, walls and ceilings benefited from the local forest foraging

Even the cork benches brought a little relief form the cold

Even the cork benches brought a little relief form the cold

 

The monks and nature were always together

The monks and nature were always together

The convent was intended to keep faith with the notion of simplicity and being at one with the natural surroundings.

The cork serving hatch from the kitchen!

The cork serving hatch from the kitchen!

The kitchen - you guessed it - lined with cork

The kitchen – you guessed it – lined with cork

 

If you want to see what austerity measures looked like in the 16th century, then have a prowl around Capuchos.

Meals were served at the stone table in the Cork Convent

Meals were served at the stone table in the Cork Convent

 

Bowing through low doorways - a sign of piety and a necessity

Bowing through low doorways – a sign of piety and a necessity

The melding of rocks, trees and earth into the fabric of the buildings doesn’t get much closer to nature.

The convent and the cork tree

The convent and the cork tree

The trees are slowly reclaiming the Cork Convent

The trees are slowly reclaiming the Cork Convent

 

So, next time you pop a cork, we hope you have a new-found admiration for the stuff that can float boats, warm houses, dress you and keep your food and drink fresh – we’ll raise a glass to that!

 

 

 

 

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A humerus blog about skull-diggery

Maybe the jokes in this post are a bit close to the bone, maybe you’ll want to bang your head against the wall, but we’re going to do it anyway. So, sing with us ….”the thigh bone’s connected to the hip bone, the hip bone’s connected to some cement and a metre thick wall…tra la la” – hang on, that’s not right, unless of course you are one of the skeletons of the 1245 monks used to build the Capella dos Osso, or Chapel of Bones in Faro. Dem bones, dem bones ain’t doin’ much dancin’ any more, but for nearly two hundred years they’ve been doing a lot of decorating.

Any more bones jokes?

Any more bone jokes?

If walls could talk...

If walls could talk…

The Chapel is an Ossuary – a box, room or other site designed to hold human bones. Often they were built in order to save space, but usually the bones were not on display – which is what makes the Faro chapel bone-tinglingly unusual. There are one or two other examples in the world, including another notable one in Portugal (what is with you Portuguese and the bones?) and a spectacular sounding one in the Czech Republic, complete with bone chandelier!  As you approach the entrance to the Faro chapel, it looks like ornate carvings, not skeletal remains!

From a distance it looks like beautiful embossing on the walls

From a distance it looks like beautiful embossing on the walls

The Faro ossuary is tucked away at the rear of a Baroque church, Igreja do Carmo, through a dusty ante room, a narrow door and across a damp courtyard. It doesn’t really feel much fussed over for such a notable place – there was only a skeleton staff to greet us, but it’s hardly a bone of contention – as who’s going to complain?

Hundreds of empty eyes staring down at you

Hundreds of empty eyes staring down at you from the ceiling arches

The décor was kindly “donated” by the long-dead monks who were originally buried in a nearby cemetery, before being dug up and “rearranged” in 1816. It is said that the Chapel is designed “as a memory” to remind us of the brevity of life and how we need to live it well – an inscription over one of the doorways (which now looks out over a nursery school – not creepy at all!) warns those entering under their own steam (and skin) “Stop here and think of this fate that will befall you”. It gives you a chill right through to your ….. oh, you know where.

Them bones, them bones

Dem bones, dem bones

Joking aside, we would have loved to have known more about dem bones, dem bones – who was the oldest, what happened to the guy with the hole in his head – although Geoff’s daughter, Eliza, who is currently doing a degree in archaeology and forensic anthropology reliably informs us that it happened post-mortem and not as the result of some dodgy Name of the Rose-style incident.

Ouch!

Ouch!

But there is little information to be had. Perhaps their anonymity is another way to reinforce the brevity of life. Here’s a brief slide show and video to go with that thought!  Oh, and a terrible joke to end on:

A skeleton walks into a pub and orders a beer… and a mop.

Tibia continued……

 

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Algarve in the autumn

 

We have been living in the Algarve  for a couple of weeks now,  so we thought you might like to see where we are and what we are doing.

We are currently house-sitting for relatives of friends of ours, in the central/eastern area of the Algarve – the southern most part of Portugal. John and Prue built this house more than 30 years ago, and at that time, this was all just countryside…

Palms and pools - not such a bad life

Palms and pools – not such a bad life

The garden of our house

The garden of our house

Our house

Our house

The courtyard

The courtyard

Our main job is to take care of Dougal – a West Highland Terrier – aged about 4 years old. He’s quite a character.

Dougal

Dougal

 

We have discovered that he likes riding in the car and rubbing his nose in the dirt, but mainly he likes sleeping wherever we are sitting!

 

 

 

Dougal and Geoff with Charlie

Walks on the beach

Walks on the beach

digger Dougal

digger Dougal

The garden has fruit trees – oranges and limes – as well as olive and avocado trees. The pond is a magnet for dragonflies, birds and even two turtles, but we found them in an amorous embrace – so didn’t want to stare for too long!

Oranges aren't the only fruit

Oranges aren’t the only fruit

We are still waiting for this grapefruit to be ready

We are still waiting for this grapefruit to be ready

Olives abound right outside our bedroom window

Olives abound right outside our bedroom window

Straight from the tree

Straight from the tree

 

The elusive blue birds

The elusive blue birds

The dragonflies love the garden pond

The dragonflies love the garden pond

Oops - sorry to intrude

Oops – sorry to intrude

Nearby is a great beach alongside a little pine forest – our first taste of the Atlantic ocean on this trip and fabulous long views along the coast.

Geoff and Charlie meet the Atlantic

Geoff and Charlie meet the Atlantic

The water is calm in this sheltered part of Portugal

The water is calm in this sheltered part of Portugal

 

Taking the long view

Taking the long view

There are plenty of local markets most days of the week. At nearby Loule this weekend they got into the Day of the Dead / Halloween vibe in amongst the cheery pots of honey, fiery red piri-piri oil, local fish, veggies and other local goodies.

The Day of the Dead at Loule market

The Day of the Dead at Loule market

The Saturday market at Loule

The Saturday market at Loule

Plenty of pots - a Portuguese speciality

Plenty of pots – a Portuguese speciality

Piri piri sauce by the gallon

Piri piri sauce by the gallon

Old friends, like bookends

Old friends, like bookends

Local produce gives heat and colour to the food

Local produce gives heat and colour to the food

Local favourites - salt cod and garlic

Local favourites – salt cod and garlic

A lettuce leaf doesn't make them better looking

A lettuce leaf doesn’t make them better looking

Traditional baskets of beans

Traditional baskets of beans

  The Algarve – originally an Arabic settlement called Al Gharb or “the West” – is a massive tourist destination. It’s population trebles in the summer months.  It can be hard to find places that aren’t developed, but there are some that we have found so far – like Ferragudo, a little fishing village and the hillside retreat of Silves.

Ferraguda fishing village

Ferragudo fishing village

Looking across from little Ferraguda to vast Portimao

Looking across from little Ferragudo to vast Portimao

Up the hill to Silves

Up the hill to Silves

Down the hill from Silves

Down the hill from Silves

Next week we plan to visit the west coast of Portugal – where record breaking waves are mastered by the brave and crazy on some of the best surfing beaches in the world, battered by the massive Atlantic winds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGaNUA-lpAc

The wind and the sun (by the way, it’s still 24 degrees here!) make up another powerful force – renewable energy. Portugal is a leader in green energy provision. In 2005 the government made a pledge to reduce the country’s dependence on fossil fuels. In the first quarter of 2013, the wind, waves and sunshine produced 70% of Portugal’s energy needs. Nice work, Portugal!

Portuguese power houses - wind and solar

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A tale of two cities

 

What often happens when religion and architecture come together?  You can get the most stunning creations and at the same time, you can also get the worst possible behaviour..

Perhaps the history of two of Southern Spain’s most significant buildings can be summed up with the opening line of Charles Dickens’s novel “Tale of Two Cities” – “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness….” Our two cities are Cordoba and Seville. Both are home to UNESCO World Heritage sites – one celebrates its Arabic origins and trumpets the culture that built such an incredible place and the other, quite literally attempted to bury many of the signs of its Arabic history. Cordoba in the 10th century was the most populous city in the world – between 500,000 to a million souls. The Moors, who had overrun the Christians, who had overrun the Romans (stop me if this is sounding all too familiar in these times!) had developed the city into a centre of learning, culture, economics and politics, with the world’s biggest library, holding up to a million texts. In the city centre had stood the christian Church of St Vincent. The Moors bought half the church from the Christians and proceeded to develop and extend the site into what was to become one of the most important examples of Arabic architecture in the world – the Great Mosque of Cordoba. Centuries later, when the Christian armies over-ran the city they naturally reclaimed the Mosque at the same time. It seems that victory wasn’t, and apparently still isn’t enough. Even as we toured the building all these centuries later, official guides could be heard earnestly telling the tourists that this really is a Christian place – not Muslim at all. The Islamic Council of Spain has even asked the Vatican for permission to jointly worship there and has been repeatedly refused. There were 856 columns in the original mosque, carved from jasper, marble, onyx and granite. Today you can see where newer columns were literally built against them in plain stone to subsume the original.

Contrast this with the inscriptions above the entrance archway of the Reales Alcazar, or Royal Palace, in Seville. While one announces in Spanish that the building’s creator was ‘the very high, noble and conquering Don Pedro, by the grace of God king of Castila and León,’ another proclaims repeatedly in Arabic that ‘there is no conqueror but Allah.’ Now the oldest royal palace still in use, it was originally built as a Moorish fort in 913. It too has been extended and altered over the centuries by a myriad of Christian kings and noblemen, but its Muslim heritage is preserved and celebrated. Both have done a fine job in creating one of the most beautiful places we have ever seen. And it is dripping in history. From the Maiden’s Courtyard, through to the The Admiral’s Hall was where Ferdinand Magellan, Amerigo Vespucci and Juan Sebastian Elcano planned their world trips and cartographer Juan de la Cosa crafted the first world map. Down the hallway was the site of Columbus’s meeting with the king and queen having returned from the “newly discovered” lands – depicted in paintings that still hang on the ancient walls. It is a celebration of all history, not a distortion of its parts and that makes it all the more beautiful.